Fine jewellery is often associated with beauty, rarity and value, yet rarely do we question the origins of the materials that define it. Thinking about gold, one of its most essential elements, carries a complex story that extends far beyond the finished piece: behind its lustre, lie processes of extraction, labour conditions, and environmental impacts that deeply affect local communities where mining takes place, yet these realities are often overlooked.
Since Mad’in Europe’s mission is to revitalise craftsmanship and safeguard the cultural heritage and savoir-faire that come with it, we cannot ignore the sustainability of material sourcing, not only in environmental terms, but also regarding its social impact on local communities and its broader social implications. In this context, when speaking about fine jewellery, the origin of gold is as important as it is complex.
In this regard, illegal mining remains a widespread issue, as highlighted by Brussels-based ethical jeweller Saskia Shutt in her article What Really Happens When You Invest in Gold? on her blog, where she points to the continued use of mercury in extraction processes: in many cases, mercury is mixed with gold-bearing materials to form an amalgam, which is then heated so that the mercury evaporates, leaving the gold behind. This practice has severe consequences, first and foremost for exploited miners and local communities exposed to toxic substances, but it also extends to consumers, who may unknowingly purchase jewellery made from gold sourced through such harmful practices.
Not only do we have environmental implications, but this matter also raises important ethical concerns: yet rather than being separate issues, social and environmental sustainability appear deeply interconnected, prompting us to reconsider the broader impact of the materials we use and the systems behind them.
To contrast this harmful system, initiatives such as Fairmined aim to respond to this need of real and genuine sustainability in gold mines by promoting responsible sourcing practices and supporting small-scale mining communities. Created in 2007 by the International NGO Alliance of Responsible Mining, it is part of the Sustainable Mines Program, an initiative for positively transforming artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM) and providing an ethical sourcing solution to the industry.
Within this context, Fairmined can be understood as follows, in its own words:
Fairmined is an initiative whose label certifies gold of responsible origin. Guarantee that it is a traceable gold, extracted with the best mining practices aimed at preserving the environment, and support the development of artisanal and small-scale mining communities.
This certification can be obtained by different actors across the gold supply chain, including certified mines, authorised suppliers and licensed brands. It therefore applies to various stages, from extraction to production and ultimately to the sale of gold and gold jewellery. In this context, contemporary jewellers are not only makers, but also mediators between materials, processes, and values, playing an active role in shaping more responsible approaches to production and consumption.
To be eligible for this certification, Fairmined imposes some specific standards, requirements that the mining organisations need to meet and respect, regarding environmental protection, fair working conditions and traceability:
The Fairmined Standard is structured around a set of core principles that address the multiple dimensions of responsible mining: these include environmental protection, ensuring reduced ecological impact and the preservation of natural resources; fair working conditions, guaranteeing safe environments, stable employment, and workers’ rights; as a final point, social development, supporting local communities through improved wellbeing, gender equality, and long-term economic opportunities. Alongside these, traceability and assurance play a key role, ensuring that gold can be tracked back to its origin and that mining practices remain transparent, legal, and free from conflict.
Fairmined not only supports local communities, but also promotes a model of small-scale, artisanal production, as reflected in its definition. In contrast to large-scale industrial mining, often driven by efficiency and volume, this approach values more responsible practices, closer relationships with the territory, and a more human scale of production.
Craftspeople like Saskia Shutt are actively raising awareness around these issues, encouraging both designers and consumers to reconsider not only what jewellery represents, but how it is made, where its materials come from, and the processes behind them before they become the pieces we wear.
This also raises questions about the role of the consumers, where their awareness becomes a crucial factor in shaping demand. Choosing jewellery today is not only an aesthetic decision, but increasingly a conscious one, influenced by an understanding of materials, their origins, and the processes behind them. Through these choices, consumers can contribute, directly or indirectly, to encouraging more transparent and responsible practices across the industry.
Choosing jewellery today is not only an aesthetic decision, but increasingly a conscious one, shaped by awareness of materials, origins, and production processes. In this sense, jewellery is no longer defined only by what we see, but by what lies behind it, so the origin of the materials, the processes, and the lives they touch. Reconnecting these elements allows us to look at each piece not just as an object, but as part of a wider story.
Caterina Crespi
